The Working Man's Shirt

Because of my appreciation for heritage clothing, I’ve been drawn to chambray shirts since I was a teenager.  They’re simultaneously rough-and-tumble and urbane.  Once the go-to shirt for men who worked with their hands, they're now worn by the rogues and mavericks of the city who beat to their own drum.  While a chambray shirt looks good under a suit, it’s also right at home with a pair of dirty khakis when working on cars or bikes.

Though chambray fabric first originated in 16th century France, the shirt is American workwear at its finest.  Their heyday was the 1940s, when they were worn by Navy men during World War II (Buzz Rickson’s 1944 U.S. Navy Chambray Shirt is a prime example of its classic appearance).  Soon after, chambray shirts were adopted by Hollywood heartthrobs like James Dean and Marlon Brando, merging their refined nonchalance with the shirt's blue collar cool.

My first chambray shirts (one in blue, one in black) were from Montreal retailer Frank & Oak.  While their quality was middling and their fit a tad too tight, I liked their coarse texture and layering ease.  The breathable fabric made them perfect to wear as standalone shirts in the summer or with a crewneck sweater when the air was nippy.  Unfortunately, one was accidentally swiped by a former neighbor of mine in my laundry room and the other’s right cuff burst at the seam.  For now, it has been retired.

This summer, I finally found a replacement for my departed chambray shirts.  At their annual studio sale, Black Blue featured several lightweight Gitman Vintage chambray shirts and I picked one up because of my past luck with the brand.  While the breathable fabric is better for summer than fall, it’s suitable for Indian Summer when worn under a quilted vest or lightweight knit.  The light blue hue provides a pleasant pop of color under autumn Earth tones.  In terms of pairing, it’s one of my most versatile shirts, and I wear it with anything from a Belstaff vest and raw denim (pictured), slim-wale corduroys or olive green chinos.  While I’ll add a heavier-duty chambray shirt to my arsenal toward the end of fall, the Gitman number will get the job done well until the first major cold front sets in.

Shirt: Gitman Vintage, Vest: Belstaff, Jeans: Baldwin, Boots: Red Wing Heritage