The Suit as Separates

Breaking up a classic gray (or navy) suit as separates is difficult.  Their crisp wool has a certain sheen that looks beautiful yet lacks subtlety.  Though classic suits are conservative, their singular colors and solid weaves make a serious statement that’s all business.

With the right contrast, however, turning a gray suit into separates is possible.  I tried this feat New Year’s Eve and was pleased with the results.  The key to making the ensemble work is by combining neutral tones and contrasting fabrics with one anchoring piece.  I paired my gray Eidos Napoli suit’s jacket with my (just back from the tailor) white Eidos trousers, which are the ideal winter whites because of their hefty cotton composition.  The rugged cotton of my new striped Schnayderman’s oxford made the ensemble look more casual.  Though freshly ironed, oxford cotton isn’t fussy, which dresses down an otherwise formal combination.

The piece that pulled the outfit together was my Allen Edmonds suede shoes.  Their chocolate brown hue has a dash of insouciance that doesn’t come with the formality of leather shoes.  The dark brown anchored the other pieces and added Italian panache to the outfit, since it’s in the Neapolitan tradition to wear suede shoes year round.

Next time I would substitute my Schnayderman’s oxford - which fit well and felt exquisite compared to lower-end models I’ve owned in the past - with my Schnayderman’s or Eidos dress shirt, which are designed with larger collars to better support ties.  That said, if one doesn’t feel like tying one on or would rather wear a bandana or ascot, the oxford is your friend under a jacket.  Either way, this outfit was rakish yet fun and the ideal get-up to ring out the old year and ring in the new year in.

Suit jacket and trousers: Eidos Napoli, Shirt: Schnayderman's, Shoes: Allen Edmonds, Pocket Square: Nordstrom Men's Shop