The Staying Power of Ralph Lauren
As the American dream dies, American style grows stronger. There’s power found in adopting the styles of faded glory without losing sight of what our country was built on. Perhaps by reminding ourselves the story of a Jewish son of immigrants, we might become a little more tolerant once again.
The story is of one Ralph Lauren, born Ralph Lifshitz to Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants. Like many children of immigrants, he changed his last name for business purposes which proved a shrewd move. Lauren started out as a fledgling tie maker in the 1960s. His designs caught on with the New York set after creating his own line for the tie maker he worked for. In 1968, he struck out on his own with his eponymous brand. Since then, Lauren has created numerous offshoots, including the much missed Polo Country and Rugby Ralph Lauren, as well as the much lauded RRL and Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
The Polo Coat is classic RL style - preppy and hardy, rugged and urbane.
These labels all draw from Lauren’s personal style, at once preppy, debonair and cowboy-inspired. Ralph is one of the few people who can wear a Canadian tuxedo without looking ridiculous, since he knows there needs to be another garment or texture that breaks up double denim. At the same time, he dons black tie formalwear with grace and nonchalance and - along with his brother Jerry - popularized the WASPy trend of pairing blazers and denim shirts.
Some of the brand’s pieces are so timeless, they’ve carried on for years with minimal changes. I have a cashmere cable-knit Polo sweater that could have been made in 1996 or 2016. Since I bought it on eBay, I have no clue when it was sewn but the soft texture and classic fit make it a timeless piece so it’s a trivial detail. The only thing that’s changed is the price - that’s where eBay is your friend. With some Ralph Lauren pieces, there’s more cachet when buying them vintage. Though you’re up against a futile marketplace - the demand for vintage Ralph Lauren is strong - wearing vintage Ralph Lauren gives off the distinct feeling of belonging to an American tribe that transcends race, class and other distinctions, a tribe who dreams about and values the same things in quality of clothes and quality of life.
Ralph's classic double denim ensemble, with a nicely patinated vintage Jeep to match.
The Ralph Lauren empire has its fair share of stylish employees and relatives, too. Ralph's brother Jerry and son Andrew have trademark looks that branch off from the Ralph Lauren tree - Andrew channels the vibe of the continental Purple Label, whereas Jerry's tastes are a portmanteau of RRL and Polo. John Wrazej, Ralph Lauren's Executive Vice President and Creative Director, is a frequent shot on The Sartorialist thanks to his mix of heritage workwear and WASPy suits befit Jay Gatsby. And we can't forget Ralph Lauren's vintage buyer, Doug Bihlmaier, who blends crunchy hippie earthiness with artsy Downtown panache. The looser fits on runways and resurgence of classic fabrics like corduroy are in no small part due to his style and keen eye.
Current internal shake-ups aside, Ralph Lauren’s timelessness makes them primed for a prosperous future. Since Ralph himself has stepped aside from day-to-day duties in the company (though still maintains a great deal of executive and creative control), he must bring someone with vision on board to ensure his brands thrive and begin growing again. Aaron Levine - who retooled Club Monaco (a Ralph Lauren subsidiary) and now Abercrombie & Fitch - is the perfect guy for the job, since he understands how to democratize classic American design without compromising quality. At its core, that’s what Ralph Lauren is all about because anyone can wear their wares, from rappers to hedge fund managers. More than anything, an appreciation for Ralph Lauren - or at least the designs they popularized and perfected - is the great equalizer among American people, and the ability for the lines’ clothing to both subvert and promote the American dream will - if not ensure its longevity - enshrine the company and its founder in the pantheon of all-time great designers.
Sweater: Polo Ralph Lauren, Vest: Belstaff, Jeans: Levi's (Sid Mashburn), Boots: Red Wing Heritage, Sunglasses: Warby Parker
Ralph's brother, Jerry Lauren, makes the classic Ralph Lauren look both tweedier and more in-your-face.
The apple doesn't fall far from the tree. Ralph's son, Andrew Lauren, shares his father's love of double denim, sporting a mean denim suit and beautiful denim espadrilles.
EVP & Creative Director John Wrazej merges Gatsby go-to-hell preppiness and rugged classicism for a look all his own yet completely Ralph Lauren.
Doug Bihlmaier - where Wes Anderson and runway designers find their inspiration. He's years ahead of trends and totally impervious to them.