Chunky Shoes
Now that the American heritage trend has died down - except in places like Minneapolis, Portland and Seattle, where cultural norms and cool climates make them acceptable places for it to carry on - more and more men on the runways and streets are sporting sleeker shoes. There’s still beauty in Alden’s shell cordovan loafers and boots, but sleeker European cuts are en vogue at the moment.
There’s still room, however, for chunky shoes in a man’s wardrobe. As much as I love my Red Wing boots, I’m thinking of a different kind of chunky shoe. For all the fuss about svelte designs, there’s a resurgence of classic styles like Wallabees, Tyrolean shoes, creepers and postman shoes. These are what’s next, since they’ve just returned to the feet of men for the last couple of years.
How to dress up Tyrolean shoes, Exhibit A.
My love affair with chunky shoes began in a vintage store in Seattle. Three years ago, I found a pair of St. John’s Bay Wallabees while visiting my aunt and uncle. St. John’s Bay is a house line for J.C. Penney - a store I haven’t set foot in for years - but much like their Towncraft line from the 1950s and ‘60s, certain vintage St. John’s Bay pieces are worth a look, like their rendition of a Wallabee. Granted, it’s more of a knockoff since they look exactly like their Clark’s counterpart. For $30, however, I wasn’t going to complain and besides, they had a unique profile that I hadn’t spotted on the street at the time.
Last week, my beloved Red Wing Beckman boots were decommissioned for the time being. Six months of every day wear took a toll on their soles, and they’ve worn down to the nail. While I’ve learned the lesson that it’s important to get heel plates on all future shoes I own, this has allowed me the opportunity to reacquaint myself with my St. John’s Bay Wallabee wannabes. And now that Spring is here, I’m quite glad that I have.
For one, the chunky rounded toe is endearing. It’s blocky, but not like the square-toed shoes that were popular for a spell ten years ago. Furthermore, the light brown suede hue looks like the color of coffee with cream, which makes it easy to match with Spring tones of olive green and white. They even go well with denim, and add a light touch to darker ensembles.
Chunky shoes aren’t as attractive as sleek Italian boots and oxfords, but they possess intrigue and whimsy that more streamlined footwear lacks. For those interested in trying the style, Clark’s Wallabees are a great and affordable place to begin. They run $135-140 and come in both a walking shoe and a boot option. They're also worth a look on eBay since they were originally made in Ireland, and you'll find better construction on vintage models. Another great chunky Spring shoe is the Tyrolean shoe, which originated in the Alpine region it shares it name with. The upward-curved toe and and suede finish originally provided comfort for the farmers and shepherds who traversed the mountainous area, but is just as likely today to make walking through the city a more pleasurable and stylish endeavor. Japanese shoemaker Yuketen does a delightful version, and their blue suede option especially is simple yet playful. French brand Paraboot’s version - which has a higher platform and ridged rubber sole - is also worth a look. And while Wallabees are best for casual outfits (Wes Anderson may beg to differ), dressing up Tyrolean shoes with a jacket and trousers is a great way to project Old World rakishness.
Some consider chunky shoes ugly. Few consider chunky shoes pretty. I consider chunky shoes fun and unexpected, a weird marriage between form and function that seems mismatched at first but works out surprisingly well. You can find me in my Wallabees until they wear out.